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=== Italy ===
=== Italy ===
During the regime the [[National Fascist Party]] heavily influenced fashion in the pursuit for autarchy and the importance of aesthetics and symbolism: clothes had to be produced in Italy and had to reflect the values of the Italian people.<ref>{{cite web|title=- la Repubblica.it|url=http://ricerca.repubblica.it/repubblica/archivio/repubblica/2005/10/30/moda-autarchica-vestiti-di-regime-della.htmlhttp://mda-arte.blogspot.it/2012/09/mussolini-il-fascismo-e-la-moda.html|website=Archivio - la Repubblica.it|language=it}}</ref> Pieces of clothing such as the '''black shirts''' became associated with the dreaded [[Blackshirts|Volunteer Militia for the Safety of the Nation]] and even to the regime itself.  
During the regime the [[National Fascist Party]] heavily influenced fashion in the pursuit for autarchy and the importance of aesthetics and symbolism: clothes had to be produced in Italy and had to reflect the values of the Italian people.<ref>{{cite web|title=- la Repubblica.it|url=http://ricerca.repubblica.it/repubblica/archivio/repubblica/2005/10/30/moda-autarchica-vestiti-di-regime-della.htmlhttp://mda-arte.blogspot.it/2012/09/mussolini-il-fascismo-e-la-moda.html|website=Archivio - la Repubblica.it|language=it}}</ref> Pieces of clothing such as the '''black shirts''' became associated with the dreaded [[Blackshirts|Volunteer Militia for the Safety of the Nation]] and even to the regime itself.  
Nowadays [[Neo-fascism|neo-fascists]] still care a great deal about clothing, but with different approaches. Symbols and clothes like the [[Celtic Cross]] and the black clothing are still present and associated to the new filo-fascists political parties and movements, but, similarly to the neo-nazism case, there has also been a growing interest in "trendiness" and fashion, with new clothing brands that offer casual and formal clothing more in line with today's consumerist culture. This has led to three different types of brands usage by the neo-fascist subculture that still cares a big deal about clothing as a way to show their political affiliation, but now it is important to be trendy as well:
Nowadays [[Neo-fascism|neo-fascists]] still care a great deal about clothing, but with different approaches. Symbols and clothes like the [[Celtic Cross]] and the black clothing are still present and associated to the new filo-fascists political parties and movements, but, similarly to the neo-nazism case, there has also been a growing interest in "trendiness" and fashion, with new clothing brands that offer casual and formal clothing more in line with today's consumerist culture. This has led to three different types of brands usage by the neo-fascist subculture that still cares a big deal about clothing as a way to show their political affiliation, while caring about what is trendy as well:
* the use of brands that are not openly using symbols of fascism but that are thought to be targeting neo-fascist consumers in light of their choices in advertising and partnerships, with the choice of testimonials, models, settings and even copy material that recalls the neo-fascist archetypical man. For example Pivert.<ref>{{cite web|title=Pivert, l'hanno ribattezzata 'linea di abbigliamento fascista'. Il responsabile: "Non è così ma ai ragazzi di CasaPound piace"|url=http://www.ilfattoquotidiano.it/2016/01/26/pivert-lhanno-ribattezzata-linea-di-abbigliamento-fascista-il-responsabile-non-e-cosi-ma-ai-ragazzi-di-casapound-piace/2405761/|website=Il Fatto Quotidiano|date=26 January 2016}}</ref>
* the use of brands that are not openly using symbols of fascism but that are thought to be targeting neo-fascist consumers in light of their choices in advertising and partnerships, with the choice of testimonials, models, settings and even copy material that recalls the neo-fascist archetypical man. For example Pivert.<ref>{{cite web|title=Pivert, l'hanno ribattezzata 'linea di abbigliamento fascista'. Il responsabile: "Non è così ma ai ragazzi di CasaPound piace"|url=http://www.ilfattoquotidiano.it/2016/01/26/pivert-lhanno-ribattezzata-linea-di-abbigliamento-fascista-il-responsabile-non-e-cosi-ma-ai-ragazzi-di-casapound-piace/2405761/|website=Il Fatto Quotidiano|date=26 January 2016}}</ref>
* the use of brands that while denying any political involvement (the apology of fascism in Italy is a felony officially) heavily rely on the fascist's regime icons, using symbols, mottos and images without using the name of the party while still making clear what is their political affiliation. An example is the decimaofficialstore.<ref>{{cite web|title=Per Natale rivive l’abbigliamento fascista|url=http://espresso.repubblica.it/attualita/2014/12/22/news/per-natale-rivive-l-abbigliamento-fascista-1.192927|website=l'Espresso|language=it-IT|date=23 December 2014}}</ref>
* the use of brands that while denying any political involvement (the apology of fascism in Italy is a felony officially) heavily rely on the fascist's regime icons, using symbols, mottos and images without using the name of the party while still making clear what is their political affiliation. An example is the decimaofficialstore.<ref>{{cite web|title=Per Natale rivive l’abbigliamento fascista|url=http://espresso.repubblica.it/attualita/2014/12/22/news/per-natale-rivive-l-abbigliamento-fascista-1.192927|website=l'Espresso|language=it-IT|date=23 December 2014}}</ref>

Revision as of 18:30, 21 February 2017

Modern forms of far-right subcultures and lifestyles

Italy

During the regime the National Fascist Party heavily influenced fashion in the pursuit for autarchy and the importance of aesthetics and symbolism: clothes had to be produced in Italy and had to reflect the values of the Italian people.[1] Pieces of clothing such as the black shirts became associated with the dreaded Volunteer Militia for the Safety of the Nation and even to the regime itself. Nowadays neo-fascists still care a great deal about clothing, but with different approaches. Symbols and clothes like the Celtic Cross and the black clothing are still present and associated to the new filo-fascists political parties and movements, but, similarly to the neo-nazism case, there has also been a growing interest in "trendiness" and fashion, with new clothing brands that offer casual and formal clothing more in line with today's consumerist culture. This has led to three different types of brands usage by the neo-fascist subculture that still cares a big deal about clothing as a way to show their political affiliation, while caring about what is trendy as well:

  • the use of brands that are not openly using symbols of fascism but that are thought to be targeting neo-fascist consumers in light of their choices in advertising and partnerships, with the choice of testimonials, models, settings and even copy material that recalls the neo-fascist archetypical man. For example Pivert.[2]
  • the use of brands that while denying any political involvement (the apology of fascism in Italy is a felony officially) heavily rely on the fascist's regime icons, using symbols, mottos and images without using the name of the party while still making clear what is their political affiliation. An example is the decimaofficialstore.[3]
  • the use of brands that are arbitrarily given a power of identification with their political values by the members of the subculture itself.

The arbitrary appropriation of modern devices of today’s consumer culture in addition to the ones typical of its "ancestor" in Neo-fascism is not just limited to fashion, examples of modern culture products that were not born with this political affiliation but were used by neo-fascists to frame their values and the adherence of its affiliates to them are Tolkien's novels, which led to the "Campi Hobbit" (Hobbit Camps) experience: real political camps where space was given to topics often overlooked in typical political institutions, with right wing music groups , visual artists, radio podcasts performances and social issues discussions about topics such as young people’s unemployment together with paramilitary activities being carried out.[4] Another very famous example is the politicization of football, with the Ultras groups often affiliated with certain ideologies. The majority of ultras groups in fact present small "bands" within them that are openly neo-fascist or at least far-right extremists,[5] with groups such as Hellas Verona's "Brigate Gialloblu" or Juventus' "Vikings" having an infamous record of violence episodes, which are not related to the sport nor their supported teams' ideals.[6]

Germany

There are no 'classic' far-right, or neo-nazis, in Germany nowadays. There are a lot of different cultures and lifestyles, which make it harder to identify them and can be seen as part of the far-right strategy.[7] There are two kinds of subcultures within far-right movements to distinguish: subcultural parasitism and subcultural creation around ideology.

Subcultural Parasitism

Far-right ideologists try to infiltrate youth- and subcultures to spread their ideas amongst them.[8]These attempts are defined as subcultural parasitism. The probably most known subculture, which got parasitised by far-rights and neo-nazis is the Skinhead scene, that started originally in Great Britain.[9] Some examples for subculture parasitism in Germany: the Nipster, infiltration of the Hipster (contemporary subculture) by neo-nazis (Nazi Hipster), Nazi punk, infiltration of the Heavy metal subculture, known as National Socialist black metal (NSBM/NSCH). Subcultures as the Goth subculture and the Hip Hop subculture got also infiltrated by far-right movements and ideologists.[10]

Subculture creation around ideology

USA

Main Article: Alt-Right

Culture of the American Alt-Right

The political movement of the American Alternate Right is a political movement that has gained significant prominence in the building up and consequent election on Donald Trump in the 2016 US election[11]. The ideology of the movement holds minimal consideration for the the legal and governing factors of government, with the key issue for supporters being the current racial and cultural shifts within the country, and a desire to maintain a sense of nationalism and preservation of a White-American dominance, maintaining the perceived traditions and norms that made ‘made America great’.

Alt-Right Characterisation

The typical alt-right supporter is of white-caucasian US citizen, most likely of a family lineage without recent immigration to the USA. While there are numerous recorded cases of anti-semitic and anti-muslim behaviour and supporters to be of predominantly Christian background, personal religious disposition does not prove to be of great importance beyond those which are discriminated against[12].

Adoption of Neo-Fascist/ Nazi symbolism

Since Donald Trump’s victory in November 2016, the exposure and symbolism associated with the alt-right has become more distinct. In in mid-November 2016 at an alt-right conference attended by approximately 200 people in Washington, D.C., audience members cheered and made the Nazi salute when he said, "Hail Trump, hail our people, hail victory!"[13]. The parallel theme of culture purity combined with the totalitarian and ominous connotations associated with Nazi history provide an aesthetic appealing to the themes and ideas of the alt-right. Due to the highly superficial nature of the group, understanding of the key concepts of behind these other far right political movements is secondary to the imagery and visual culture associated with them[14].

Far-right subcultures and fashion labels

Fashion label abuse

Fashion label abuse means in this case, far-right movements, use specific labels and connect their ideology. Some prominent examples are Lonsdale, New Balance, Fred Perry.[15]

Fashion label creation around far-right ideology

There are also fashion labels that got created for neo-nazis, by neo-nazis.[16]

See also

Notes

  1. ↑ "- la Repubblica.it" (in it). http://ricerca.repubblica.it/repubblica/archivio/repubblica/2005/10/30/moda-autarchica-vestiti-di-regime-della.htmlhttp://mda-arte.blogspot.it/2012/09/mussolini-il-fascismo-e-la-moda.html. 
  2. ↑ "Pivert, l'hanno ribattezzata 'linea di abbigliamento fascista'. Il responsabile: "Non è così ma ai ragazzi di CasaPound piace"". 26 January 2016. http://www.ilfattoquotidiano.it/2016/01/26/pivert-lhanno-ribattezzata-linea-di-abbigliamento-fascista-il-responsabile-non-e-cosi-ma-ai-ragazzi-di-casapound-piace/2405761/. 
  3. ↑ "Per Natale rivive l’abbigliamento fascista" (in it-IT). 23 December 2014. http://espresso.repubblica.it/attualita/2014/12/22/news/per-natale-rivive-l-abbigliamento-fascista-1.192927. 
  4. ↑ "La Repubblica 08 giugno 2007". http://www.compagniadellanello.net/rassegna/repubblica_08_06_07.htm. 
  5. ↑ http://www.osservatoriosport.interno.gov.it/allegati/rapporto_2015_versione_stampabile.pdf
  6. ↑ "Calcio, la piaga nera del tifo fascista" (in it-IT). 11 July 2016. http://espresso.repubblica.it/inchieste/2016/07/11/news/calcio-la-piaga-nera-del-tifo-fascista-1.276905. 
  7. ↑ "Subkulturen | Netz gegen Nazis" (in de). http://www.netz-gegen-nazis.de/category/ressorts/wissen/woran-man-sie-erkennt/subkulturen&gws_rd=cr&ei=CCyrWMXaIcGIaLizrZAL. 
  8. ↑ Bundeszentrale für politische Bildung: Rechtsextreme Jugendkultur http://www.bpb.de/politik/extremismus/rechtsextremismus/41740/jugendkultur
  9. ↑ Worley, Matthew, and Nigel Copsey. "White youth: the Far Right, Punk and British youth culture." JOMEC Journal 9 (2016): 27-47.
  10. ↑ "Subkulturen | Netz gegen Nazis" (in de). http://www.netz-gegen-nazis.de/category/ressorts/wissen/woran-man-sie-erkennt/subkulturen&gws_rd=cr&ei=CCyrWMXaIcGIaLizrZAL. 
  11. ↑ "Alt Right: A Primer about the New White Supremacy". http://www.adl.org/combating-hate/domestic-extremism-terrorism/c/alt-right-a-primer-about-the.html?referrer=https://www.google.it/#.WKQq3BIrKTc. 
  12. ↑ Michael, George. "The seeds of the alt-right, America's emergent right-wing populist movement" (in en). http://theconversation.com/the-seeds-of-the-alt-right-americas-emergent-right-wing-populist-movement-69036. 
  13. ↑ Goldstein, Joseph (20 November 2016). "Alt-Right Gathering Exults in Trump Election With Nazi-Era Salute". https://www.nytimes.com/2016/11/21/us/alt-right-salutes-donald-trump.html. 
  14. ↑ Romano, Aja. "The 2016 culture war, as illustrated by the alt-right". http://www.vox.com/culture/2016/12/30/13572256/2016-trump-culture-war-alt-right-meme. 
  15. ↑ http://www.dw.com/en/fashion-labels-worn-by-europes-skinheads-restore-their-reputation/a-5226933
  16. ↑ www.netz-gegen-nazis.de/artikel/marken-der-rechtsextremen-szene&gws_rd=cr&ei=MDarWIylMIbkaJOumYgL

References

  • Mecklenburg, Jens, ed. Handbuch deutscher Rechtsextremismus. Elefanten Press, 1996.
  • Leo, Tobias. "Der Nazis neue Kleider: Die Vereinnahmung jugendlicher Subkulturen durch die extreme Rechte." historia. scribere 8 (2016): 83-124.
  • Schedler, Jan. "Die extreme Rechte als soziale Bewegung." Handbuch Rechtsextremismus. Springer Fachmedien Wiesbaden, 2016. 285-323.
  • Häusler, Alexander; Schedler, Jan. "Neue Formen einer flüchtlingsfeindlichen sozialen Bewegung von rechts" https://www.degruyter.com/downloadpdf/j/fjsb.2016.29.issue-2/fjsb-2016-0203/fjsb-2016-0203.pdf
  • Stroud, Joseph James Iain. "Constructions of identity through music in extreme-right subcultures." (2014).
  • Schlembach, Raphael. "New trends on the German extreme right." (2013): 192-194.
  • Pisoiu, Daniela. "Subcultures, violent radicalization and terrorism." (2015): 1-2.
  • Patyi, Peter, and Jana Levická. "Attractiveness of right wing oriented movements and subcultures in modern society of the Slovak republic." Procedia-Social and Behavioral Sciences 143 (2014): 832-837.
  • Jaschke, Hans-Gerd. "Right-Wing Extremism and Populism in Contemporary Germany and Western Europe." Rightwing radicalism today: Perspectives from Europe and the US (2013): 22-36.
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